2008 Vertical tastings
We recently embarked on our semi-regular journey through the old wines, this time dating back to 1981. With around twenty vintages of each wine to taste we divided each tasting over two days to ensure fresh palates. Mount Mary has always avoided being influenced by winemaking fashions and the overwhelming impression from these tastings was that of consistency of style which was evident through all four wines and all years.
A few caveats:
- All of the comments regarding the wines are relative to the other wines in the tasting. (I.e. when we describe a Chardonnay as having low acidity, this is in comparison to our other Chardonnays)
- Unless a wine was clearly faulty, we only opened one bottle. Therefore, in some cases we may have tasted a somewhat inferior bottle that is not representative of most bottles from that year. (Follow any recommendations in these notes cautiously.)
- Once wine leaves our cellar any differences in storage conditions of the wine will impact upon the relevance of these notes.
Triolet
Of the white wines, the Triolet seemed to show the variations in the vintage weather more than the Chardonnay. There are some more delicate wines (1996, 1998, 1999, 2004) some quite powerful Triolets (1989, 1990, 1993, 2000, 2003, 2005) and a couple that are quite broad (1991, 2001). While all of the wines were drinking well, the absolute highlights would have to have been 1989, 1990, 2000, and 2005.
Chardonnay
The Chardonnays are more consistent in style than the Triolet. There were some wines that would be placed in a lean/acid category such as 1987, 1992, and 1994. There were others which were more powerful such as 1990, 1993, 1997, 2000, 2001, and 2003.
It was difficult at times to write notes for these wines as we were conscious that we were writing the same descriptors over and over again, due to the consistency. There were not the same distinct categories that showed up in the Triolet.
An interesting sub-bracket was formed by the wines from 2001 to 2004. The 2001 and 2003 from hot years looked quite broad while the 2002 and 2004 looked more refined. The numbers certainly don’t tell the story as the alcohol and acid figures are quite similar for all four wines.
Pinot noir
It was a great pleasure to taste these Pinots, and they were surprisingly consistent in style, given Pinot’s famously fickle nature. While there was remarkable consistency from vintage to vintage, there was a noticeable increase in tannin and structure over the last ten years, increasing again in the last five. Whether this is because the younger wines just need more time, or whether the ongoing effects of lower rainfall over the last 10 years have changed the wines, is yet to be seen.
Most of the Pinots younger than 1995 would still improve with more time in bottle, assuming good cellaring conditions. The Pinots from 1985 to 1994 looked to be drinking very well now.
Quintet
We tasted back a bit further, to 1981 in the Quintets, which turned out to be one of the best wines, still in very good condition. The Quintets possess a lovely balance which only improves with time. John Middleton often quoted a friend from Bordeaux who remarked that “good Bordeaux should finish clean like water”. John applied this mantra to the Quintet from the earliest vintages.
The very best of the 1980s were 1981, 1984 and 1988.
TRIOLET VERTICAL TASTING - Held on the 21st and 22nd May, 2008
1986 Semillon
Straw coloured, not at all brown for its age.
Lively and clean palate, still nice phenolics, mouthwatering acid. Quite citrus acid, but very drinkable. Very nice warmth from the alcohol and a very long aftertaste. In top condition.
1986 Sauvignon blanc
Dark straw, still fine colour.
Lovely clean palate, still some fruit. Exceptional balance, mouthwatering acid. Quite complex and rich, very long. Some citrus/cumquat aftertaste and well balanced phenolics.
1988 Sauvignon
Lovely round palate, great phenolics, a little warmth from the alcohol, very long. Very slight apparent oak but perfectly balanced.
1989 Sauvignon
Fresh colour, looks like a freshly bottled Chardonnay.
Quite upfront acid but well rounded palate. Acid not over the top. Lovely texture. Very young looking and has many years left.
1990 Sauvignon
Very rich palate, good phenolics, typical balance but with added richness and viscosity. Yeasty flavour at finish, very slight wood. Not as expressive nose as others but great palate.
1991 Sauvignon
Very slightly hot at back palate, not as finely balanced as others, still a very good wine.
1992 Triolet
Tight balance but good, somewhat green in flavour but nice and fresh, slight woody finish. Should have many years left.
1993 Triolet
Very nice balance and good length. Mouthwatering acid. Strong acid but in balance, strong phenolics, very powerful palate, needs more time. Would suit fattier foods.
(There is considerable bottle variation in the 1993 Triolet, we had to open a few bottles to find a good one, must have been a bad batch of corks. We have found this on other occasions with the 1993 Chardonnay as well)
1994 Triolet
Powerful phenolic palate, well balanced acid, good length, needs more time. Very young and fresh tasting.
1995 Triolet
Lean palate, not overly round. Still quite young and fresh. Good strong phenolics as usual but no fatness to back it up.
1996 Triolet
Soft mouth-feel but well supported by some nice texture. More approachable style, not overly expressive wine but very drinkable.
1997 Triolet
Slightly brown colour.
Stronger phenolics, quite grainy, some aldehyde showing.
(We opened 2 bottles to get a good one, others were oxidized. This repeats a pattern from the 1993 and 1997 chard, another bad batch of corks.)
1998 Triolet
Very fresh young colour.
Lovely palate, very delicate but with noticeable phenolics. Soft but balanced acidity. Good finish. Lighter, more delicate style.
1999 Triolet
Very fresh colour.
Slightly acid balance, light weight again. Solids use (lees stirring) very apparent. Slightly stalky, or chalk-like phenolics. Good balance and needs more time to be at it’s best.
2000 Triolet
Full, richer palate, good structure, lighter acid, good development. Very generous and long. Will continue to improve.
2001 Triolet
Good length and texture, but a little broad compared to the better Triolets.
2002 Triolet
Nice phenolics, well balanced, some richness but very light weight, similar to 1998. Combination of low acid and light phenolics. Will continue to improve.
2003 Triolet
Richer colour.
Bigger wine, quite rich but balanced by powerful phenolics and acid. Long and persistent. Slightly hot finish. Drinking well now.
2004 Triolet
Atypical flavours of lychee, musk.
CHARDONNAY VERTICAL TASTING - Held on the 5th and 6th of June, 2008.
1987 Chardonnay
Most bottles of the 1987 were quite ullaged, but not this one. Quite lean, strong phenolics, good length, lovely acidity. Nice balance and texture. Clean finish, long. Many years left. More Chablis like than southern Burgundy.
1988 Chardonnay
Very fresh colour. Lovely round balance, great length and finish, soft but adequate phenolics, a little warmth, great balance.
1989 Chardonnay
Extremely fresh colour, some green. Quite lean, although not as lean as the 1987. Good phenolics and slightly sour acidity but would be great with food. Very long, mineral, chalky, very lively and fresh.
1990 Chardonnay
Half bottle, had to go to a second bottle. Big and round but good acidity too. Great balance. Quite powerful.
1991 Chardonnay
Quite rich, long, good balance of phenolics/acid. Appearance of leanness as well as richness, very nice, long. Lovely phenolics and the texture offsets higher pH.
1992 Chardonnay
Leaner and tougher than 1990 and 1991.Very long. Well structured, more acid style, would suit different foods.
1993 Chardonnay
Bigger wine, strong phenolics and acid but balance is good. A bit more oxidized than some, tonnes of texture. Very slight oak apparent.
1994 Chardonnay
Tight, lean, more Chablis like. Great length, strong acidity, very different balance, long and lean, but very good. (There is considerable bottle variation in this year, and some bottles are over the hill, while others are great.)
1995 Chardonnay
Had to go to second bottle, first was slightly volatile. Sulphides, sweaty at first but blows off. Lovely balance, good length, generous but tight and lean. Will continue to improve. This wine polarised the tasters.
1996 Chardonnay
Nice acidity, strong phenolics, persistent flavour. Will continue to improve.
1997 Chardonnay
Lovely wine that needs more time. Very interesting flavours. Slight greenness offset by cooked citrus flavours. Very good.
1998 Chardonnay
Slight smokey/sulphide. Very round palate, well structured, good length and lower acidity. Drinking very well now.
1999 Chardonnay
Fresh colour, pale. Very textural palate, lean balance compared to the 1998. Good length, very good acid/alcohol balance, good palate weight. Not as persistent or concentrated flavour as some other chardonnays. Still improving.
2000 Chardonnay
Some green in colour, very fresh. Quite round and soft but with just enough supporting acidity. Very good texture, great wine, needs time.
2001 Chardonnay
Typical flavours, fresh cream, honey, almond. Very soft, round, very low acidity.
2002 Chardonnay
Fresh colour. Tight balance, good length and good mouth feel. Obvious solids/chalkiness. Needs more time to be at it’s best.
2003 Chardonnay
Big and broad, not as fine as the 2002. Persistent flavour. Drinking well now.
2004 Chardonnay
Very good richness, length and balance. Needs time.
PINOT NOIR VERTICAL TASTING- Held on 31st July 2008.
1985 Pinot noir
Quite tight, youthful feel on palate, lively acid but not out of balance. Still plenty of tannins. Could go on for quite a few years yet.
1986 Pinot noir
Good acid and length, slightly hard/metallic tannins Very persistent flavour. Needs fatty food.
1987 Pinot noir
Strong tannins, very nice acidity. Tannin concentrates in front of the mouth Developing well, will probably always be reasonably tannic.
1988 Pinot noir
Bigger wine, lots of body, tannin, balanced acid. Apparent alcohol. Great length and balance. One of the best Pinots in the tasting.
1989 Pinot noir
Lots of dusty tannins. Perfect acidity. Good length, quite drying but good with food. Succulent and persistent, will improve with more time in bottle.
1990 Pinot noir
Strong tannins, not heaps of flavour but long and well balanced.
1991 Pinot noir
Good balance of acid and tannin, some apparent alcohol. Slightly woody feel. Alcohol gives weight and persistence. Drinking well now.
1992 Pinot noir
Powerful tannin, good length, very persistent. Very vibrant and great balance. Will continue to improve but drinking very well now.
1993 Pinot noir
Lovely weight, strong tannins, fresher and simpler than the 1992, but very nice. Slightly hot/persistent alcohol.
1994 Pinot noir
Strong tannins and meaty flavour on palate, needs fatty foods.
1995 Pinot noir
Tight, long, good tannins. Slight creaminess. Will benefit from more time in bottle.
1996 Pinot noir
Supple, classic smooth tannins, slightly sharp finish, slight bitterness, but good length.
1997 Pinot noir
Nice creaminess but finish dominated by strong tannins. Classic flavours, similar to the 1996. Unsure whether it will improve more from here.
1998 Pinot noir
Good weight, bigger wine, acid and tannins quite dominant on finish, will be better in 5 years time.
1999 Pinot noir
Mouthfilling, succulent and salivating. Good flavours and mouthfeel. Strong but ripe tannins, very well balanced. One of the best Pinots.
2000 Pinot noir
Lovely round palate. Good length and acidity. Strong tannins, needs time. Another one of the best.
2001 Pinot noir
Nice acid balance. Similar to the 2000, complex and round. Quite big, dominating tannins at this point. Very persistent flavour with slightly raisin fruit.
2002 Pinot noir
Quite round and succulent with softer tannins than the 2001. Good length and great balance but not as complex as some.
2003 Pinot noir
Good length, supple, tannins still very strong on the finish. Good balance aside from tannins.
2004 Pinot noir
Supple and fresh. Strong tannins but ok, needs more time to develop
QUINTET VERTICAL TASTING - Held on the 13th and 14th August, 2008
1981 Cabernets
Deep, rich, perfect palate. Great balance and length. Dense, mouth filling tannins. One of the best quintets.
1982 Cabernets
Lean, slightly acid balance, lighter weight, a little watery, metallic. May have been a bad bottle, unfortunately we didn’t have enough of this wine to open another one.
1983 Cabernets
Good balance and length, slightly metallic tannins but ok. As for the ‘82, may have been a bad bottle.
1984 Cabernets
Strong tannins, good body and length though. Quite drying tannins, would suit fatty foods. Lovely acidity.
1985 Cabernets
Good mid-palate weight, seamless tannins. Very long and tight. Complex flavour.
1986 Cabernets
Atypical flavours of wood/smoke. Typical Quintet palate.
1987 Cabernets
Great palate again, very succulent, saliva producing, concentrated. Not heaps of aroma but great wine.
1988 Cabernets
Very complex nose. Very good balance and weight, more dense and soft tannins than most, riper flavours, great length. Most like the 1981.
1989 Cabernets
Herbaceous, plummy. Nice creaminess to the palate but the tannins are green and sharp. Not a great Cabernet year.
1990 Cabernets
Very complex. Very long, lots of weight. Dense but ripe tannins. Drinking very well now. One of the best Quintets. (Note: there is more than usual bottle variation between the 1990 Quintets we have tasted.)
1991 Cabernets
Good structure, strong tannins, needs time. Quite persistent but atypical flavours, slightly vegetal.
1992 Quintet
Complex aroma. Strong wine with youngish tannins, fresh flavours, needs time.
1993 Quintet
More meat and ‘barnyard’ than usual. Strong tannins, quite drying, would suit fattier foods.
1994 Quintet
See the notes for the 1993.
1995 Quintet
Very nice and clean, lighter weight palate, well balanced, not as concentrated as some but very good drinking now.
1996 Quintet
Quite aromatic. Nicely weighted palate. Fine but persistent tannins that will improve with more time.
1997 Quintet
Quite a tannic and dry wine. Long finish but the tannins are very strong at this stage. Needs rich fatty food.
1998 Quintet
We don’t have any 750ml bottles of the ‘98 (someone forgot to put some away before they were all sold out!). We looked at a couple of the 375ml bottles but they have developed too quickly, and will not be representative of the full bottles. Please feel free to email us tasting notes of the 1998 Quintet!
1999 Quintet
Very complex and clean aroma. Good flavours and richness, lots of good ripe tannins, medium bodied, nice balance, needs more time.
2000 Quintet
Lovely palate weight and structure. Good balance. Strong but pleasant tannins. Very good drinking. One of the best Quintets.
2001 Quintet
Strong tannins, typical of a dry year, but a very good wine. Needs time. Good richness and length, lovely flavours, great balance. Very slight alcohol lift on finish.
2002 Quintet
Good weight and flavour if a little herbaceous. Strong tannins, too young and needs time. Good acidity and structure.
2003 Quintet
Quite a big Quintet with too much dry tannin at this stage. Could end up like the 1997. Otherwise typical flavours and persistence.
2004 Quintet
Lots of bright fruit, complex. Well balanced, lots of persistent flavour. Firm tannins but very much in balance. One of the best Quintets, needs more time.